A condition known as parvovirus infection is a very painful infection and sometimes even fatal as it results in a lot of suffering and possibly eventual death of your dog. It usually effects puppies or younger dogs and is a very nasty infection.
If you suspect your dog to have this condition you should look out for the following symptoms of parvovirus infection:
1. The puppy will have a loss of appetite and may appear to be very sick or ill
2. It will strain to produce feces and when it does it will only produce very bloody diarrhoea which will probably be mostly blood.
3. The disease infects the dog with almost no warning but deteriorates quickly
4. The dog may have uncontrollable diarrhoea and may also vomit violently
A virus that targets the lining of the intestines is what causes parvovirus infections in dogs. The disease is more common in puppies than it is for older dogs and it usually infects dogs which are under the age of twelve weeks. If an older dog has parvovirus infection it most likely caught it from a much younger puppy.
The infection which is simple but very devastating and painful is contagious and hence should be treated immediately in order to make sure that other puppies or dogs do not get infected. If your dog shows signs of parvovirus infection and you suspect your dog to be infected by this disease it is suggested that you visit the vet as soon as possible in order to make sure that your dog receives timely treatment and avoids eventual death caused by this infection.
As of right now the infection has no known cures and the only way your dog or puppy can survive this infection is by fighting the virus on its own.
When the vet suspects your dog to be infected by this virus he/she may take a blood sample and send it off for further testing and to help the healing process he/she will use a drip line in order to keep the dog or the puppy well hydrated. The dog will also receive antibiotics to help it avoid developing any further bacterial infections while its immune system fights off the parvovirus infection.
Even though in some cases the dog has been reported to have died even after the pet owners best efforts still, in most cases your puppy or dog may have the best chance of surviving if it is taken to the vet as soon as it starts showing signs of this infection or as soon as the pet owner suspects the dog to be infected by it.
2008年8月24日星期日
2008年8月19日星期二
Aid Your Pooch To A Good Night Slumber
Dogs undergo sleep disorders in much the same way that we do for reasons that can be traced right within our homes. In this regard, it is very important that dog owners have a keen sense of observation when it comes to a dog's sleeping disorder. No matter how difficult the task may seem to be, keeping a close look at every manifestation of dog's sleep disorder will promise some reward to both pet and its owner.
However, as with all the other problems concerning the behavior and habits of a dog, the solution to the problem does not take effect after a mere 24 hours. It will demand your patience in monitoring your pet's reactions to the activities that you will have it perform. To lessen the difficulty of the task, you must simply do these tasks:
Look out for certain deviations that might have caused your dog to have peculiar sleeping habits. Your dog may be reacting to several situations like a sudden change in its crate or lounge, or in your furniture set-up, a stressful incident, or a house party. Don't forget that dogs are accustomed to repetitive activities or set-ups, and a slight change to these factors will greatly affect its mode of sleeping. Trace the root of the problem and perform corrective measures, such as rearranging the furniture to their original plan that your dog has been accustomed to or putting the dog back in the crate, where it used to take a rest.
Provide your dog with a well-balanced diet. The diet depends on your dog's age. Young pooches generally have a higher calorie intake requirement than older ones. Such a scheme provides pups with essential nutrients to help them grow. On the other hand, older dogs require just the right amount of calories that will support their daily activities.
Keep in mind that the diet will most likely produce positive results when done on scheduled time or earlier than the pet's schedule for sleep. This is because dogs dogs are particularly active after meals. It is not a good idea to feed your dog before bedtime since it will only have so much energy to roam around, bark, and awaken the entire neighborhood.
Give your dog relaxing supplements. Calming products (which are usually taken orally) will do the magic as these will provide relief from restlessness, nervousness, fear, and aggression, which will yield to a sound slumber for both of you.
Have your dog undergo daily exercise. Your dog needs an average of 40 minutes of walking, running, and other exercise a day. If your dog has too much stored energy, it is more likely to be wriggly at night, just when you are having a beautiful dream. Helping your dog to tire itself before bedtime will be ideal, as it will be drained of any excess energy, which can spell sleep disruptions to both of you.
Set a bedtime. Aid your pet to get accustomed to a definite sleeping time. Model your pet's bedtime to the one you observe.
See to it that your pet sleeps in a clean and comfortable place. Make sure that your dog will not slumber on a damp or cold place as it will lead to sleep disturbance. Give comfortable items like blankets or pillows to your dog. Keep in mind that your primary aim is to make your dog safe and comfortable. Dog beds and dog crates will do the trick.
However, as with all the other problems concerning the behavior and habits of a dog, the solution to the problem does not take effect after a mere 24 hours. It will demand your patience in monitoring your pet's reactions to the activities that you will have it perform. To lessen the difficulty of the task, you must simply do these tasks:
Look out for certain deviations that might have caused your dog to have peculiar sleeping habits. Your dog may be reacting to several situations like a sudden change in its crate or lounge, or in your furniture set-up, a stressful incident, or a house party. Don't forget that dogs are accustomed to repetitive activities or set-ups, and a slight change to these factors will greatly affect its mode of sleeping. Trace the root of the problem and perform corrective measures, such as rearranging the furniture to their original plan that your dog has been accustomed to or putting the dog back in the crate, where it used to take a rest.
Provide your dog with a well-balanced diet. The diet depends on your dog's age. Young pooches generally have a higher calorie intake requirement than older ones. Such a scheme provides pups with essential nutrients to help them grow. On the other hand, older dogs require just the right amount of calories that will support their daily activities.
Keep in mind that the diet will most likely produce positive results when done on scheduled time or earlier than the pet's schedule for sleep. This is because dogs dogs are particularly active after meals. It is not a good idea to feed your dog before bedtime since it will only have so much energy to roam around, bark, and awaken the entire neighborhood.
Give your dog relaxing supplements. Calming products (which are usually taken orally) will do the magic as these will provide relief from restlessness, nervousness, fear, and aggression, which will yield to a sound slumber for both of you.
Have your dog undergo daily exercise. Your dog needs an average of 40 minutes of walking, running, and other exercise a day. If your dog has too much stored energy, it is more likely to be wriggly at night, just when you are having a beautiful dream. Helping your dog to tire itself before bedtime will be ideal, as it will be drained of any excess energy, which can spell sleep disruptions to both of you.
Set a bedtime. Aid your pet to get accustomed to a definite sleeping time. Model your pet's bedtime to the one you observe.
See to it that your pet sleeps in a clean and comfortable place. Make sure that your dog will not slumber on a damp or cold place as it will lead to sleep disturbance. Give comfortable items like blankets or pillows to your dog. Keep in mind that your primary aim is to make your dog safe and comfortable. Dog beds and dog crates will do the trick.
2008年8月12日星期二
Dog Training – House Training Your Dog
One of the most confusing and anxiety-ridden areas of dog training is house training. Yet, it is one of the most important, especially for the humans involved.
The best way to understand and find success with house training is to use the dog’s own nature to help you.
Dogs are, by instinct, very clean animals. They would rather not soil any areas where they normally sleep or eat. Dogs are also creatures of habit --- they like to know where they’re supposed to go urinate and defecate. If the dog is taught to eliminate on gravel or concrete, they will tend to look for either of those surfaces to do so. If they’re taught to eliminate on grass or dirt, that’s where they will choose. Use these habits to your advantage.
Setting up the training area
This is the first step. Make sure the area you choose is small and confined. A bathroom works for this, or a place in a kitchen or garage also work well. Remember that crate training works well for puppies or small dogs, but for the larger animals, the crate is too confining.
You need to spend some time with this aspect of the training. You need to play with your dog in this area, and this is also where the dog will be taught to sleep and eat. Put together a special bed. This can be something you make up with items around the house, or you can go to the store and purchase a bed. Don’t worry of your dog eliminates in this area at first. Once they figure out that this is where the sleep and eat, they’ll stop eliminating there.
Once your dog realizes that the bed is for sleeping, you can begin to move it around the house. But, only when you’re there. When you’re not, put the bed back in the training area.
Setting up the toilet area
Now you need to determine where the toilet area is going to be located. Presumably, this will be outside the house. Wherever it is, it has to a place that the dog can go to whenever it needs to go. You need to go there with your dog so you can give the appropriate rewards for good behavior.
Establish a set feeding schedule for your dog. If the dog is in the habit of being fed at certain times, the natural process of elimination will also begin to occur at certain times. Once you learn when those times relate to the eating times, it will become much easier for you to guide the dog to the established toilet area.
Don’t forget to make sure your dog has ready access to the toilet area. That way mistakes aren’t as likely to occur.
Continuing the house training process
Once your dog is in the habit of eliminating in the toilet area and not in the sleeping/eating area, you can begin to extend the training area to the rest of the house. Do this slowly. Start by expanding to one additional room, and then gradually expand into other areas. Don’t expand into new areas until you’re sure your dog has control of its bladder and bowels. At first, do this only when you’re around. If you’re away, then put your dog back in the original training area.
Speeding up the process
If you have to move this process along more quickly, you can do so. Remember to proceed with caution, though. It’s better to go slowly than to have to try to retrain a dog later. If you’re going to try to speed things up, you will have to be there in order to reward your dog for successful eliminations. It is also important not to punish for mistakes. That will only confuse the dog and slow the process even further.
The best way to understand and find success with house training is to use the dog’s own nature to help you.
Dogs are, by instinct, very clean animals. They would rather not soil any areas where they normally sleep or eat. Dogs are also creatures of habit --- they like to know where they’re supposed to go urinate and defecate. If the dog is taught to eliminate on gravel or concrete, they will tend to look for either of those surfaces to do so. If they’re taught to eliminate on grass or dirt, that’s where they will choose. Use these habits to your advantage.
Setting up the training area
This is the first step. Make sure the area you choose is small and confined. A bathroom works for this, or a place in a kitchen or garage also work well. Remember that crate training works well for puppies or small dogs, but for the larger animals, the crate is too confining.
You need to spend some time with this aspect of the training. You need to play with your dog in this area, and this is also where the dog will be taught to sleep and eat. Put together a special bed. This can be something you make up with items around the house, or you can go to the store and purchase a bed. Don’t worry of your dog eliminates in this area at first. Once they figure out that this is where the sleep and eat, they’ll stop eliminating there.
Once your dog realizes that the bed is for sleeping, you can begin to move it around the house. But, only when you’re there. When you’re not, put the bed back in the training area.
Setting up the toilet area
Now you need to determine where the toilet area is going to be located. Presumably, this will be outside the house. Wherever it is, it has to a place that the dog can go to whenever it needs to go. You need to go there with your dog so you can give the appropriate rewards for good behavior.
Establish a set feeding schedule for your dog. If the dog is in the habit of being fed at certain times, the natural process of elimination will also begin to occur at certain times. Once you learn when those times relate to the eating times, it will become much easier for you to guide the dog to the established toilet area.
Don’t forget to make sure your dog has ready access to the toilet area. That way mistakes aren’t as likely to occur.
Continuing the house training process
Once your dog is in the habit of eliminating in the toilet area and not in the sleeping/eating area, you can begin to extend the training area to the rest of the house. Do this slowly. Start by expanding to one additional room, and then gradually expand into other areas. Don’t expand into new areas until you’re sure your dog has control of its bladder and bowels. At first, do this only when you’re around. If you’re away, then put your dog back in the original training area.
Speeding up the process
If you have to move this process along more quickly, you can do so. Remember to proceed with caution, though. It’s better to go slowly than to have to try to retrain a dog later. If you’re going to try to speed things up, you will have to be there in order to reward your dog for successful eliminations. It is also important not to punish for mistakes. That will only confuse the dog and slow the process even further.
2008年8月11日星期一
Inflammatory Bowel Disease in Cats
Chronic cases of diarrhea in cats are a familiar headache for many veterinarians. Symptoms can wax and wane over a period of time, which can complicate the veterinarians assessment of the response to treatment in some cases. Many, though not all of these cats, will have inflammatory bowel disease (IDB). This article will focus on how a veterinarian is able to diagnose IBD, and what the treatment options are.
There are many possible underlying causes when a cat presents with vomiting, diarrhea or weight loss:
1. Parasites (worms)
2. Viral disease (Coronavirus, Leukaemia virus)
3. Bacteria (Salmonella, Campylobacter)
4. Protozoa (Giardia, Tritrichomonas)
5. Dietary (food intolerance, food allergy)
6. Cancer (lymphoma, adenocarcinoma)
7. Inflammatory bowel disease
8. Hormonal or metabolic (hyperthyroidism, kidney failure)
9. Drug or toxin induced
10. Motility disorders
The veterinarian should take a full history from the owner, to avoid spending time and money on unnecessary testing. Factors to be considered are age, diet, appetite, worming history, weight change and the nature of the vomiting or diarrhea. It is important to differentiate vomiting from regurgitation, which is usually an esophageal problem, and to differentiate small intestinal diarrhea from large intestinal diarrhea by the frequency and consistency of the feces.
The veterinarian will then carry out a full clinical examination, before embarking on a basic approach to the diagnosis as follows:
1. Blood and urine tests to rule out disease elsewhere in the body which has a knock on effect on the gastrointestinal tract.
2. Bacterial culture of the feces to rule out Salmonella & Campylobacter
3. Parasite check on the feces to rule out worms
4. Xrays to rule out an obstruction by a foreign body or a tumor
5. Ultrasound examination of the abdomen to measure gut wall thickness
6. Bland prescription diet for 4-6 weeks (e.g. Hills Z/D, Royal Canin Sensitivity Control)
7. Intestinal biopsies via endoscopy or surgery.
IBD is a diagnosis of exclusion, so all of the differentials previously mentioned must be ruled out in order to make the diagnosis.
What is inflammatory bowel disease?
IBD is a term used to describe the inflammation of one of the layers in the intestinal wall. This swelling of the gut wall may occur with many other intestinal diseases, but when no cause of the inflammation is found after doing thorough testing as described above, the condition is described as idiopathic IBD (essentially, IBD of unknown cause). IBD is thought to be an overreaction to bacteria or dietary ingredients within the gut.
Are certain types of cats affected more than others?
Any age of cat can be affected, and pedigree breeds may be more commonly affected than domestic shorthair cats.
What are the treatment options once IBD has been diagnosed?
DIET
Many cats can be managed by diet alone in the long term. Diets can be hypoallergenic, high fiber or low residue. Sometimes all three of these types of food need to be trialed before the most effective one is selected. Cats are often resistant to dietary trials, and this is the main reason why many cats are given drugs to treat their IBD, the cat will just not eat the specific diet.
Hypoallergenic foods usually contain a new protein source that the cat has not encountered before such as capelin & tapioca, duck, venison or hydrolyzed protein. Diets high in fiber are recommended for colonic disease.
DRUGS
Drugs are a last resort, if the cat is still showing symptoms despite various food trials or if the cat refuses to eat the prescription diet.
Options are:
1. Anti inflammatory or immunosuppressive drugs
Prednisolone, a corticosteroid given at 2-4mg/kg, is the most effective drug.
2. Budesonide
This is also a steroid, with fewer side effects on the rest of the body but it is unlicensed.
3. Chlorambucil
Sometimes given in addition to a steroid if the steroid alone working.
4. Metronidazole
This reduces the number of bacteria in the gut, so theoretically will reduce the triggering factor for the inflammation.
5. Cyclosporine
Normally used in dogs, this modifies the immune system. It has only been tried in a small number of cats, with mixed results.
There are many possible underlying causes when a cat presents with vomiting, diarrhea or weight loss:
1. Parasites (worms)
2. Viral disease (Coronavirus, Leukaemia virus)
3. Bacteria (Salmonella, Campylobacter)
4. Protozoa (Giardia, Tritrichomonas)
5. Dietary (food intolerance, food allergy)
6. Cancer (lymphoma, adenocarcinoma)
7. Inflammatory bowel disease
8. Hormonal or metabolic (hyperthyroidism, kidney failure)
9. Drug or toxin induced
10. Motility disorders
The veterinarian should take a full history from the owner, to avoid spending time and money on unnecessary testing. Factors to be considered are age, diet, appetite, worming history, weight change and the nature of the vomiting or diarrhea. It is important to differentiate vomiting from regurgitation, which is usually an esophageal problem, and to differentiate small intestinal diarrhea from large intestinal diarrhea by the frequency and consistency of the feces.
The veterinarian will then carry out a full clinical examination, before embarking on a basic approach to the diagnosis as follows:
1. Blood and urine tests to rule out disease elsewhere in the body which has a knock on effect on the gastrointestinal tract.
2. Bacterial culture of the feces to rule out Salmonella & Campylobacter
3. Parasite check on the feces to rule out worms
4. Xrays to rule out an obstruction by a foreign body or a tumor
5. Ultrasound examination of the abdomen to measure gut wall thickness
6. Bland prescription diet for 4-6 weeks (e.g. Hills Z/D, Royal Canin Sensitivity Control)
7. Intestinal biopsies via endoscopy or surgery.
IBD is a diagnosis of exclusion, so all of the differentials previously mentioned must be ruled out in order to make the diagnosis.
What is inflammatory bowel disease?
IBD is a term used to describe the inflammation of one of the layers in the intestinal wall. This swelling of the gut wall may occur with many other intestinal diseases, but when no cause of the inflammation is found after doing thorough testing as described above, the condition is described as idiopathic IBD (essentially, IBD of unknown cause). IBD is thought to be an overreaction to bacteria or dietary ingredients within the gut.
Are certain types of cats affected more than others?
Any age of cat can be affected, and pedigree breeds may be more commonly affected than domestic shorthair cats.
What are the treatment options once IBD has been diagnosed?
DIET
Many cats can be managed by diet alone in the long term. Diets can be hypoallergenic, high fiber or low residue. Sometimes all three of these types of food need to be trialed before the most effective one is selected. Cats are often resistant to dietary trials, and this is the main reason why many cats are given drugs to treat their IBD, the cat will just not eat the specific diet.
Hypoallergenic foods usually contain a new protein source that the cat has not encountered before such as capelin & tapioca, duck, venison or hydrolyzed protein. Diets high in fiber are recommended for colonic disease.
DRUGS
Drugs are a last resort, if the cat is still showing symptoms despite various food trials or if the cat refuses to eat the prescription diet.
Options are:
1. Anti inflammatory or immunosuppressive drugs
Prednisolone, a corticosteroid given at 2-4mg/kg, is the most effective drug.
2. Budesonide
This is also a steroid, with fewer side effects on the rest of the body but it is unlicensed.
3. Chlorambucil
Sometimes given in addition to a steroid if the steroid alone working.
4. Metronidazole
This reduces the number of bacteria in the gut, so theoretically will reduce the triggering factor for the inflammation.
5. Cyclosporine
Normally used in dogs, this modifies the immune system. It has only been tried in a small number of cats, with mixed results.
2008年8月7日星期四
Pekingese Puppy And Dog Information
The Pekingese is a friendly, independent, low activity lap dog that will do well in an apartment or small house. They are very affectionate but still make good watch dogs. They can be wary of other dogs so they need to be extensively socialized early. They like older children but may not be happy with loud young children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Pekingese is 6 to 9 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 8 to 10 pounds. Under 6 pounds is a tea cup or sleeve Pekingese and between 6 and 8 pounds is a mini.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Pekingese is no exception. Be on the look out for kidney stones, breathing problems, easily damaged eyes, and the danger of corneal ulcers. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Pekingese has a long, coarse and straight coat with a soft, thick undercoat. They should be brushed daily. Also eyes and ears need to be cleaned and checked daily. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, avoid mats, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Pekingese can live between 13 and 15 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Pekingese come from China where they were the national sacred dog. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1915.
Some Registries:
*Pekingese Club of America
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 2 to 4 Pekingese puppies
Category: Toy Group
Terms To Describe: Intelligent, dignified, compact, direct, independent, courage, self-esteem, brave, sensitive, affectionate, snobbish, self-centered
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
Very Good watch dog.
Learn very fast.
Great lap dog.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Very poor guard dog.
Like to be pampered.
Can be an obedience problem.
Can be a barker.
Strong willed.
Can be difficult to housebreak.
*Other Names Known By: Little Lion Dog, Sleeve Dog, Sun Dog, Peke, Imperial Dog of China
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Pekingese is 6 to 9 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 8 to 10 pounds. Under 6 pounds is a tea cup or sleeve Pekingese and between 6 and 8 pounds is a mini.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Pekingese is no exception. Be on the look out for kidney stones, breathing problems, easily damaged eyes, and the danger of corneal ulcers. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Pekingese has a long, coarse and straight coat with a soft, thick undercoat. They should be brushed daily. Also eyes and ears need to be cleaned and checked daily. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, avoid mats, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Pekingese can live between 13 and 15 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Pekingese come from China where they were the national sacred dog. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1915.
Some Registries:
*Pekingese Club of America
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 2 to 4 Pekingese puppies
Category: Toy Group
Terms To Describe: Intelligent, dignified, compact, direct, independent, courage, self-esteem, brave, sensitive, affectionate, snobbish, self-centered
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
Very Good watch dog.
Learn very fast.
Great lap dog.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Very poor guard dog.
Like to be pampered.
Can be an obedience problem.
Can be a barker.
Strong willed.
Can be difficult to housebreak.
*Other Names Known By: Little Lion Dog, Sleeve Dog, Sun Dog, Peke, Imperial Dog of China
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
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